Final Aegean swim?

John is learning the many intricacies of backgammon

from a series of young teachers.

Anton, from Paris, is his latest teacher.

At four years of age he has many tricks!

It is a rare windless day in Chora...maybe on the entire island! I decided that I should have my final swim at Agia Anna. It has always been my dream to imagine the beach to myself...not another soul in sight!  And...it finally happened. I was alone with the sea at my feet. The water was like silk...so cool and refreshing. I floated out and looked up at the monastery on the hillside. I listened to the tinkling of goat bells in the distance. Then I started to have doubts...what if something happened to me?...what if I had a heart attack?...what if an octopus grabbed my toe?...maybe I should head for shore? The old adage “be careful what you wish for!” popped into my head. Of course nothing happened and I totally enjoyed my time in the water.

Later we joined Theo and Mata for our final meal at Jazzmin...pesto pasta and Horta...delicious!...with a glass of wine. Today is the last day that Jazzmin will be open during the day until next spring. They will continue to open in the evenings through winter. 

After the meal and the wine...it is time for a late afternoon nap!

A beautiful piece of land

Yesterday we visited a piece of land 

that our friend owns and hopes to build on.

There is a small stone house on the land...

...an oven to bake future pizzas

and a ladder to the rooftop.

From the rooftop we looked out to the port of Katapola.

A morning trek

We were awake earlier than usual this morning and our Cafe doesn’t open 

in the winter months until 10:00am so we decided to go on a trek.

We walked over to this small church.

From that point we could look down at the port of Katapola.

There are interesting rock shapes everywhere.

A view of our home base in Chora on the return trip.

Our morning coffee and tea tasted even better after the exercise!

Smoking in Greece

In 2010 a new “smoking ban” law was passed in Greece.  At that time Greece had the highest consumption of tobacco products in the European Union.

The passage of this law has had very little effect in cafes and bars around the country. Everyone still smokes! It is particularly challenging for non-smokers to join their friends for social outings during the winter months when everyone is inside and doors are often closed against the cold.

At Jazzmin Cafe/Bar the owners decided to show movies two evenings each week throughout the winter in the bar. They also decided that there would be no smoking allowed during the movie. To be fair...there is an intermission halfway through the film to give smokers time to step outside and have a puff!

They were hoping that non-smokers would welcome the opportunity to enjoy some weekly entertainment without having to inhale a room full of smoke.

Last night we watched “God’s own country” at the bar and it was a relief for us to breathe comfortably. Thank you Jazzmin!

A day trip to Schinoussa

Yesterday we joined Mata for a day trip to the small island of Schinoussa.

We boarded the Skopelitis at 7:00am for the two hour boat trip.

The Express Skopelitis has been sailing between the small Cycladic islands since 1958.

The island of Schinoussa has a population of about 250 inhabitants

but during the winter months this number decreases to around ninety.

We walked uphill from the port to the Chora village

where we stopped for a coffee at Cafenion Χαρά (Hara).

John stayed here with his book while Mata and I went on a trek

to explore other parts of the island...eventually finding a small beach

where we were discouraged from swimming...no sun...

...but we found some beautiful rocks to take back to John.

Enroute we saw only two people...working on a church restoration.

Instead of goats we were chaperoned by a herd of turkeys down the road!

We returned from our trek...after 2 1/2 hours.

John was halfway through his book and had consumed several cups of tea!

We shared lunch at Beer-aki before walking back to the port

and a smooth trip back to Katapola with a couple of “nappers” onboard.

Daily entertainment

Two days ago we were entertained by Dom and his friend.

Later in the day we were entertained...

...by the signage in Katapola!

Which way should we go??

Pathway to Katapola

Our friend Christina took our car to the port this morning

loaded with her stuff for the ferry trip back to the mainland.

She parked it near the port for us to find.

It was an opportunity for John to traverse the pathway to Katapola for the first time.

Fortunately our British friends had left a pair of walking poles behind for John to use!

I have to admit that the pathway was longer than I remembered!

At one point along the way we heard a cry from behind us

and one of our adopted sons flew past on his way to work.

It was probably about a 20 minute trip for him.

For us...it was 2 1/4 hours!

With rubbery legs we finished the trek and found our way to a cafe 

for refreshments before driving back to Chora.

Needless to say we both enjoyed a long afternoon nap!

A swim and dinner

Summer weather returned yesterday.

After our writing group met in the morning

I was forced to enjoy  another swim in the Aegean!

My favourite beach is just below the small church.

The water is crystal clear and warm...ish!

In the evening we were invited to share dinner

with our friends at Katina restaurant in Aegiali.

Their daughter, Anastasia, discovered “Simon’s Cat”!

The Greek Hacienda

This afternoon we visited Natasha and Fabio’s new home

in the south at Kolofana.

The property has many ancient olive trees.

Melina posed at the small church below their house.

There are also very old pieces of carved marble...possibly from an ancient temple.

This is a gracious, welcoming home!

Thank you!

The museum

Yesterday I visited the museum in Chora for the first time.

Fortunately I had Elena and Marianna to translate

while the guide led us around between the displays.

Archeological finds date from 3200-2000 BC.

This is an ancient measuring device for olive oil or wine.

The holes in the front would be plugged while a quantity of liquid

was poured into the requested shallow cup...1 kilo, 1/2 kilo, 1/4 kilo.

The plugs would then be removed and the liquid would flow into a personal container.

This burial urn was discovered when a donkey

stepped on the buried urn, creating the hole in the side.

In 1956 there was an earthquake and tsunami

that damaged many homes on Amorgos.

At 7.7...it was the largest in Greece during the 20th century

with an aftershock of 7.2.

Emily and the accordion

Last night we joined Daniel, Francesca and their daughter Emily for dinner.

After dinner Emily decided to share some accordion music with us.

At the age of twelve, she has been taking lessons for three years

and the music was a magical touch at the end of our dinner!
Bravo Emily!!

Drakos (Dragon)

Last night we watched “Drakos”, a 1956 Greek film, 

at the small theatre is Vroutsi.

It was in black and white with subtitles...

...considered one of The top 10 Greek movies.

The weather here continues to be undecided

with rain in the morning followed by sunny warmth.

Meatballs

Yesterday I decided to slip into the sea again despite the waves. 

It was wonderful but a bit treacherous on the way back to shore. 

It was a challenge to synchronize my exit with the waves 

and allow them to push me in rather than pull me out. 

Sitting in the sun after was rewarding and warming!

Last night we drove south again, 

to the 2nd ANNUAL MEATBALL FESTIVAL!

Our adopted son Big Theo hosted the event.

He prepared and cooked plates loaded with meatballs,

 fried potatoes, fresh cheese and salad.

SO DELICIOUS! ...and everything was prepared

in a tiny kitchen with no counters and only two burners!

He must have prepared and cooked at least 100 large meatballs!

Thursday and Friday

On Thursday I drove south with Mata, Kalliroi and Christina 

to visit friends who had just moved from Chora to a house in Kolofana.

It is a beautiful place with an olive grove,

a small old church and some ancient temple pieces

scattered below the house.

(more photos next week when we revisit)

On Friday morning our writing group gathered again.

This time there were 12 writers...

...and John was pleased that he was not the only male in the group.

The writing prompt was “missed connections”

And, of course, the writings were varied

to reflect the diversity around the tables!

Last night we were invited to join a group for dinner

in celebration of a young friend’s birthday.

Niovi, the birthday girl, had arranged her birthday dinner

at Fotodotis, a small cafenion in Chora.

We toasted her with raki!!

The wind

The wind blows clouds 

across Chora’s sky

all day and night.

Swimming is a challenge in the choppy sea.

Fish soup is appreciated on chilly nights

and new books are a welcome treat!

Breakfast at Big Theo’s

We were invited to share breakfast this morning at one of our adopted son’s homes in Kato Kambos, 

south on the island. The house is at the end of a long dirt road with a lone palm tree...almost 60-70 feet tall. 

Vassiliki, John and Big Theo

At the very end of the road, about 100 yards from the house is the beach...

...a beautiful windswept spot with a small church at the edge of the water.

Our breakfast included local eggs, tomatoes, cheese,

peppers, cucumber, olives, capers and a beet chutney!

After lunch we were invited to view Theo’s collection of Lino printings.

He had a very successful exhibition this last summer.

We selected two to display on our walls at home.

Backgammon and brownies

We started the day with a backgammon lesson

for John from Anastasia.

She was the teacher and he was forced to learn a new style of playing!

Later in the afternoon we went to Michael Anne’s in Langada

for an early dinner of pumpkin soup, beetroot salad, broccoli salad

and a dessert of western style brownies!

Theo, Marianna, Zoë (Theo’s mother) at Michael Anne’s.

Sunset from Michael Anne’s home.

Homemade pasta lasagne

Last night we had guest chefs in the underground kitchen.

Alex decided to make his special homemade pasta lasagne.

Jenny and I were his assistants!

Thirteen guests from Belgium, Germany, Canada and Greece

enjoyed a delicious lasagne dinner with a gift of homemade wine.

October 3rd

We have enjoyed summer warmth for the past three days.

 This morning we wandered through the village after breakfast, enjoying the quiet pathways.

Despite  having a head cold, I could not resist the urge to swim at Agia Anna. 

The sea was like glass...smooth and clear! 

My mother would have celebrated her 93rd birthday today.

As I was floating in the sea I thought about how she would have enjoyed this moment.

The October Face of Chora

There is something so special...so unique...about being regular visitors to Chora.

We are not tourists. We do not have expectations.

 We do not wonder why the pathways are silent and empty...why shops and cafes are closed...why the village has almost gone to sleep. 

We love this “ October face” of our village as it prepares for the deeper silence of winter. 

There are evening gatherings of familiar faces...more conversations in Greek than in French, Italian, German and English.

We know when the bakery is open...when the grocery stores close...why the church bells ring...where to find a good home cooked meal. 

The days are still warm enough for outdoor coffees...the evenings warm enough for outdoor wines at sunset. 

It is the perfect time to be here.

A calm day

Well...Zorba passed to the north and did not affect us at all. We both have head colds but decided last night that we would attend a house concert down in the port. Unfortunately there was no concert because the musician was stuck on another island without ferry service. On the positive side we were all served a wonderful dinner of pumpkin soup, pasta, salad and desserts as well as beverages by the hostess in her home by the sea.

There was no wind today...absolutely calm!

And we are happy to report that Chora is finally becoming calm.

Tonight we shared sunset drinks on the upper terrace of Jazzmin.

It was a spectacular sunset!