One of our favorite places on the island is Kali Kardia( Good Heart), a small cafenion in the village of Tholaria. We greet Kiria Plito with kisses before she serves us homemade wine and her savory spinach pies. She is an aged woman, tiny and stooped with a warm smile.
Looking around us, we see a varied selection of products that she sells, collects and stores....bottles of water, juice, cleaning products, toothpaste. As well, there is a donkey saddle sitting on the floor just inside the door, a well worn chair that is still serviceable, the essential TV for important football and basketball games, backgammon games and outdated weigh scales.
Usually there are several men sipping coffee and sharing local gossip while Kiria Plito busies herself in the kitchen cleaning wild greens, making meat balls and rolling dough for more spinach pies.
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