October 20 - Day 3

It was definitely a challenge to roll out of bed this morning after putting our heads on pillows after 3am!!! Theo went in search of yogurt, fresh fruit and baked goods while the group slowly roused ourselves into action.

Coffee at the port and onto another ferry to Mykonos. The seas were still rough but not as bad as yesterday. This time we were met in port around 1:30pm by Petros, another friend of Theo's who took us to a very clean budget Pension outside the main town. During the afternoon we wandered some of the narrow pathways of Old Town and enjoyed a pizza lunch.

Choppy seas!!

The pathways are lined with shops catering to tourists. Petros told us that cruise ships will visit the port until the end of November. Many of the visitors are from China and there is even a special marriage office on Santorini for young Chinese visitors.

It was a long walk (a Greek 1.2km) back to our rooms that took about one hour instead of the predicted twenty minutes. After a much needed late afternoon nap we headed into town again at 9:00pm with Petros for a tour through some of the older sections of town.

This ancient church sits near the sea.

He took us to a funky taverna where they served meals made with local products and encouraged patrons to draw on the whitewashed walls. I couldn't resist...leaving behind a cartoon of Theo that received comments from everyone seated around us. It was so loud that we couldn't converse so Petros suggested that we go back to his place for tea.

He lives in a small building, newer construction on top of the hill above town. Snaking through skinny roads we arrived unscathed and spent two hours sipping mountain tea, sharing philosophies and watching the three guys share some island smoke. 

Before taking us back to our rooms Petros played a bazouki song for us.

Bedtime was after 1:00am!

October 19 - Day 2

Whew! How time flies! There was no time to post anything yesterday. In the morning we had a group breakfast at our favourite cafe on Paros...Symposium. It was fun to sit in the sun and speculate about whether the ferry to Syros would sail in the high winds. After breakfast we did a short tour of the island and boarded the ferry "Aqua Jewel" for a very rough 2 1/2 hour trip to Syros. I sat inside in the middle of the boat and focused on not getting seasick.

On arrival at Syros (8pm)we were met by Kostas who took us to an 18th century mansion which our group rented for one night. It still reflected elements of past elegance and was very comfortable with high ceilings and historic touches.

Six members of our group

After dropping our bags we left for the Theatre to see a dance performance by the local dance school. The Theatre was beautiful...quite old with four levels of box seats around both sides. 

The performance was contemporary and too long but contained bits of brilliance. 

The dancers, all young adults, were amazing!

Ceiling of the Syros Theatre

After the performance we walked to Elia, an upscale cafe/bar to share a celebration with the performers but, by this time it was after 11pm and we hadn't eaten since 11am. The decision was to find a small restaurant, eat and return later for the celebration. Sometime earlier in the day I had removed my watch and had no idea what the time was from that point on!!

Back at Elia we were introduced to several dancers, shared a raki and headed back to the rental house. After about one hour of wandering around on the steep hillside of town we decided that we were definitely lost and attempted to find the group at Elia again. Fortunately they were still there and, after sharing a good laugh at us, they escorted us to the house...at 3:00am!!!

October 18 - Day 1

OMG! What a day! We were up at 5:00am in order to catch a 6:00am ferry to Paros along with our group. We all sat on the top deck of the ferry. It was a glorious warm summer day.

As we watched the sunrise we decided that it was time to spread our friend's ashes in the Aegean so we sent him on a voyage as the sky turned shades of pink.

On Paros we waited for two more people to join us on our adventures. Finally, as a group of ten, we left the port in two cars and on two motorbikes to tour the island. The other eight members of the group range in age between 27-47. They could all be either our children or our grandchildren!

First stop was a beautiful sandy beach where everyone stripped  and dove into the water. I decided, at age 70, that it was time to shed my bathing suit...and joined them! It was great. There is no self consciousness in this group!

Second stop was another beach that had deposits of argil ( a type of clay). Once again we all shed our clothing. This time pieces of hardened clay were beaten and softened into a muddy mixture which we used to slather on our bodies and parade around the beach while the argil dried. A dip in the sea and a generous body rub left our skin feeling soft and refreshed.

Mud Monsters!

After rinsing and drying we drove to a small town for a massive group dinner.

Yorgos eating the last piece of chicken!

Fully sated we once again formed our caravan of two cars and two bikes for the trip to Lefkes, a small mountain village, for dessert!! It was only 8:00pm by the time we wound our way through the village and found a small cafe for dessert...but we were exhausted. By 9:00pm we convinced Yorgos to take us back to the hotel. The rest of the group could carry on without us!!!

More bits and pieces

A three year old came into the Cafe/Bar the other night and pointed to one of my exhibition pieces. Apparently he liked it. His mother handed it to him and he walked around with it, intent on taking it home. In what universe does an exhibited piece of artwork become an object for a three year old to handle?!

I went to the bank today (the only one on the island)to make a deposit for our friend. His instructions were written very clearly to the bank teller. My only responsibility was to hand the cash and note to her. Her only question for me was "What is your father's last name?"

Bits & pieces

Weekly delivery of water bottles for one of the three markets in Chora.

The amount of plastic bottles and bags on the islands is disastrous!

We learned that it is possible to have INR blood tests done here instead of travelling by ferry to Naxos...so...John had the test done yesterday with good results! Yeah!! Unfortunately he developed a huge haematoma which was the result of the technician not using the thinnest needle! It should fade out of sight in a month or two!! We did not have to pay for the INR testing or the subsequent visit for the Doctor to check the haematoma.

Usually there is a new graduate doctor on each island every year. This does not provide any level of comfort or continuity for the locals. Last year a Doctor who had visited the island as a tourist decided to set up a permanent practice on Amorgos. With 30 years of experience, he is paid 1550 euros per month by the government! This is much more than the average person earns but much less than the average Doctor in a city.

Another trip to Nondas Organic Farm today....

....and another beautiful smile!!

This marked the first time that I have received a gift 

of organic veggies after asking if I could take a photo!!

The tomatoes are like candy and the white aubergines are wonderful.

Today is packing day for our ten day/ten boat trip with our friend Theo. Most of our stuff will be left behind for when we return to Amorgos... just taking our backpacks with a few essentials. The original plans for the start of our trip have gone awry because of mechanical problems with a ferry. As a result we will stay one night on Paros before going to Syros where we will disembark and go straight to a dance performance before checking in at our accommodation. 

The beauty of this trip is that I don't have to do anything!!! Theo has planned the trip, is looking after ferry tickets, accommodations and will probably search out the best food along the way. What a treat!! Another friend is leaving a car for us to use on Paros during our unexpected overnight stay.

October 14

Another day of wandering through Chora. 

The sun was shining.

Butterflies flitted.

A final coat was being applied to the little church.

A rare photo of three beauties!

Coralie, a young artist from Paris, prepared dinner in the underground kitchen.

We watched another glorious sunset from the top terrace at Jazzmin.

Alive on the rock

How do so many green "things" manage to grow on this rock?

Bouganvillea bursts out of walls.

Crocuses in October push through the rocky pathway.

Geraniums and cactus flourish in pots.

Pomegranates weigh down the branches of this tree.